State of play report

After a bit of a bollocking from Bill and all the work he's putting in, thought it was best to give a bit of an update. Barry knocked up the battery tray that sits nicely in behind the gear box. Bolted through the engine plates by the rear frame bolts, it is stopped pivoting by a pin through the centre stand pivot hole.

The current state of play. The seat has come out a treat, apologies for not posting this when it first came back a few weeks ago. A new, well new to me, upholsterer about 5 miles away, great job and only took about three weeks. Probably going to run the rear muddie in a similar fashion, but may well get another guard.

Back Wheel In And The General State Of Play

Makin' a start on the Primary

Got the Primary cases back from the polisher yesterday, just laid up on there at the moment, weeeelll you know how it is. Got a complete new 500 clutch to go in there along with a new primary chain, still need an alternator to button this side up completely.

The standard footrest rotated back on the hexagon bar and the standard brake pedal in position. Plenty of scope for improvement here, but nothing too complex or difficult to achieve by the looks of it.

Passing Gas

Springing Banjos

When I first started messing about with the seat base I was stuck for springs. The frame is set up for vertical eyes and the only springs that were about at the time were the more conventional parallel horizontal eye type. As a get by measure, two old pneumatic type banjos were used to roughly adapt what was available, you know how it is when you're gagging to fit something on. It was never intended that they stay on there, and two new springs were to be ordered from Alberta Springs with the bottom eyes formed in the vertical plane. The longer it sat around in this "knocked up" stylee, the more it grew on me, so the threaded ends have now been heli-coiled and the spring bases bolted down properly, probably still get some new stainless springs made, but now in the more usual format and the banjos are staying.

A Bit Of Light

Started getting the back light sorted out over the weekend. The SPARTO lamp unit looks spot on, and will, even more so, when it's polished. Left a few holes in the stainless spacer to let the brass peep through. It's only clamped in position at the moment as I've got to convince myself that I'll get away with running it down there.
The seat base is at the powder coaters and is booked in with the upholsterer next week. Using a new bloke for the leather work, reasonably local and hearing nothing but good things about his work............we'll see.

Things are..................

............. beginning to stir down the shed again! Well, as it goes I've been getting moaned at for lack of up dates and progress, fair call really, so things are getting on the move again.

Standing on it's own feet

Fitted this Samrat stand from Hitchcock's the other day, went on like it was a Honda part. Listed at 15 quid, probably about 21 by the time it's in ya hand after Greedy Added Tax and post, it's still a bloody good bargain. The rear engine plates came in the same package, this means that a battery platform can now be figured out. Originally the thought was to come off of the four gearbox studs, but common sense prevailed and it was decided that it's best not to disturb them suckahs as they already have enough work to do. All the space seen in the picture will be available to house the battery so it shouldn't be too much of a problem sussing something out that will attach between the two plates.

Wheel Building

With the festive activities pretty much over and done with, and a break in the Arctic conditions, I popped over and picked the wheels up. Pleased ? Well you could say that, they're looking as cool as the weather and twice as bright. The rims are Akront Morad and not Borranis, a shame in a way but the drive towards period originality in the custom world has pushed the price of original Borranis through the roof. These look the same and Akront were a big player back in the day, don't matter which they are they're still a bastard to clean. Wait for the holidays to finish now and get 'em rubbered up.

A Bit Of An Update

Andy Berry phoned up last night with a progress report on the motor. The hold up is the crank, when he stripped it to replace the floating bush with a roller big end the drive side flywheel had been galled where the crank pin had been pressed in during manufacture. This is now at Alpha bearings getting the two flywheels line bored to accept a new slightly larger pin. Otherwise everything else in and on the motor is ready to go back together. I'm not really fretting about this as it's got to be right, and from what Andy is saying it will be a joy both to look at and use.
So I'm afraid it's gonna be a little longer yet chaps.

Bloody Snow !!!!!!!

The wheels are done, or so I'm told. Can't get over to pick 'em up due to the prevailing weather conditions. Ho Hum!

Rollin' On

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Took the opportunity to borrow the daughter's car this morning. Got the hubs, rims and spokes over to the wheel builder, also took the back wheel that I've had in the frame as an offset check. Means that the rolling chassis is no longer that, but I feel the inconvenience is worth it for a couple of weeks.

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If ya get me drift!

Come on now people ya gotta admit it's got potential back there!

Steering Stop, Stopping The Steering.

Got a bit carried away with the mudguard situation yesterday, realised today that there are no detail shots of the steering stop plate, mounted and doing it's stuff. Well here it is, in all it's stopping glory.

These are the bolt positions for the actual stops themselves, whether they remain as a couple of cap heads or not remains to be seen. Probably strength versus weight they are better than most things. Aesthetically, they look like, errr, cap head screws really, but still, they do have an engineery feel to 'em.

This part I'm really pleased with, the protruding threads are the bottom of two more M10 cap heads. If you open the picture up you will see that there is effectively zero clearance between the bolt and the plate, the holes were cut at 10 mm diameter dead size. The holes in the bottom of the yoke are bored 16 mm and the heads of the cap screws have been lightly skimmed back to 15.9 mm, the steering stem bolt hole is 12.2 mm for an M12 bolt. So less than 0.3mm (0.012") to play with anywhere, this will eradicate any movement of the plate in operation, that may work on the steering stem bolt. The whole thing went together without the thought of hammer, file or drill.
The post on "The Design Process" may of seemed long winded and over fussy, but the end justifies the means, and the job is most definitely a good 'un.

Now I Ain't So Sure

Keep looking at the pictures I posted yesterday, and my eye is drawn to the front muddy every time. There's no mistaking that it's a lovely piece and beautifully hand crafted but is it right? It follows the contour of the tyre perfectly, it's the right length and in isolation it looks great. But it's not in isolation on the bike and I feel that it is not really in keeping with the overall look. I'm seriously considering contacting Al at Skeleton Chop Shop and going for a shorter version of what's on the back.
Any thoughts or comments greatly appreciated

Most Of The Bits Hangin' On There

Toddy beat the seat base out of a bit of sheet metal and sent it down in the week, the man is certainly gifted as shown by his work on the Ironworks site. Trying to find something "off the shelf" had proved nigh on impossible, as everything seems to be Harley biased and far too long. The Biltwell seats are certainly lovely looking things, but at 13 1/2" long almost require pillion pegs. This base is, to my eye, proportionally correct for what's trying to be achieved here.

Ignoring the grease can "spring" and the pissed rear muddy, this is pretty much what the finished view will be from the back. The motor should be plainly visible out of the sides and definitely be a presence in the set up.

Here's the headlight mounted onto the steering stop plate extension, there will be a round spacer between the light and the plate to push it up a little. I'm a little undecided at the moment, the light looks almost too small in relation to the rest of the bike. Maybe by the time the cables and stuff are on there filling the gap behind it will look better.

Well this is pretty much how it's gonna look when it's all done,not really much more to get now. The wheels need to be built, that's the next step I guess, then the rear muddy can be finalised and fixed as can the front one. Once the rear guard is fixed, the seat can be mounted and the special custom grease tin can be sidelined. The tank position is about set, it's sitting on a piece of insulating foam that I got from, strangely enough Pipelagging.co.uk and it fits a treat, with an inch wall thickness it should keep them nasty vibes from wrecking the tank. Still pondering over the exhaust style, hi-level or swept back, probably best to wait 'til the motor's back before making that decision.

The Design Process

When it's time to create a custom part to do a job, I usually find that a good idea takes about a week to filter it's way up through the crap and throwaway thoughts that initially come to mind. It's pretty safe to say that the first plan will not be, or even similar to, the finished article.
The part in question in this example is the steering stop. The Spartan Engineering yokes are designed for trials use, and as such are not supplied with any steering stops, or for that matter anywhere to mount any. It is a must have feature, as any work carried out mounting the tank can only be done safe in the knowledge that the forks will not, cannot suddenly swing onto full lock and clout the tank. I didn't want to drill the yokes so whatever was there had to be utilised.
The steering stem is held into the bottom yoke with an M12 bolt, which is obviously concentric with the arc of the turn of the forks, so that is a good fixing point for a plate to be attached. The next hurdle was sorting out a sturdy way of stopping the plate rotating around the single bolt, luckily Spartan bore two 16mm diameter holes in the underside of the yoke for lightness, ideal for two pegs to locate. As a bonus it was also possible to utilise the same bracket to mount the head light, again saving the need to drill, and a bracket that serves more than one function is always good.

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The bracket was first drawn out by hand, just to get a feel for the overall look of the finished article.

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It was then redrawn using a CAD package to the exact finished dimensions, and to get the various fillets and curves finalised.

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After completion using the CAD system it was printed out onto self adhesive label stock at full size. This in turn was stuck to a piece of plastic card, and the holes drilled and the outer shape cut out using scissors, this makes for a strong template that can be handled and test fitted. Bolts were fitted into the holes and the assembly offered up beneath the bottom yoke. The two bolts shown in this picture are the actual steering stops.

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Once it was established that everything was in order the CAD drawing was e-mailed to a sheet metal company and the part was laser cut from 5mm thick Mild Steel to the exact dimensions needed. Job's a good un as they say.

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Hubs Back And Front Back

When the two half width hubs originally arrived from India, I was never really convinced about the finish, it was certainly black enough, but the thickness of the paint did not seem to be much. The last thing that you want is for the hubs to be going rusty or the finish deteriorating after the wheels have been laced. Not really a lot you can do if that happens, short of stripping the wheel down and doing what should have been done in the first place.

I had ordered and received two flanged alloy rims and spoke sets from Hagon's, and Martin was all set to build the wheels up. I looked at the hubs again and decided that seeing as I'm not blessed with X-Ray vision or indeed specs, the paint had to go just to know what was on there.
Initially I attacked the hubs, well when I say attacked it was more a threat, with Nitromors the original paint capitulated without any effort at all. Revealing what seemed to be one coat of black lacquer straight onto the steel, a finish more akin to the black japanned wood screws that were once available.

I sprayed the cleaned hubs with a zinc galvanising spray followed by black acrylic, the problem was that it was too cold and probably too damp to get a decent finish and they came out almost grey, such was the bloom on the paint. Seeing as the weather outside will neither be warmer or drier for a few months yet, and the chances of doing them indoors was a non-starter, I laid them off to Pete. He runs a car repair and recovery service complete with spray booth, and he phosphated them before shooting them in 2 pack black. Certainly a better result than I could achieve at the height of an arid summer, so now it's a matter of whipping the bearings in and getting the hubs to Martin. Should be looking at a set of nice wheels pretty soon.

It's a funny old world

Seeing as nobody answered the call for a "D" shaped speedo, and to buy one costs a ton plus, and then the price of a rebuild! it was time to seek an alternative. Got this off of the Bay of Fools for what is a song in comparison. As you can see, it's New Old Stock, in the box and only showing test miles, result!. The odd thing is though, it came from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, so it was made in Cricklewood, North London, sent out to Malaysia and then back here and it still ended up costing half what a comparable unit would have cost from a UK supplier. Dunno?????? go figure

Looking Better For The Massage

When Hitchcock's supply the rear section it comes with a drilling jig cum top spacer. This is great for getting the positions of the holes for the top bolts, but looks plain ugly when left on there as a spacer. You maybe able to see it in earlier frame shots, once you've seen it you won't forget it.
Because of that the frame has had a bit of a holiday and been reworked in that area, it's now all welded up and the bulky jig thing has been reduced to the bare essentials, the bolts have also been replaced by steel pins and blended in.

The opportunity was also taken to get rid of the brackets that are supplied to mount one of the standard triangular tool boxes.